Posts by Subgenre

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UKHippy is a long running online community and of likeminded people exploring all interpretations on what it means to be living an alternative lifestyle -- we welcome discussions on everything related to sustainability, the environment, alternative spirituality, music, festivals, politics and more -- membership of this website is free but supported by the community.

    Have the rules changed much over the last few years? I can understand some people being miffed if new rules are having a detrimental affect on the way they have lived for many years. Twenty miles a year doesn't seem like much to ask, but if you can only stop for two weeks at at time, how do you only end up traveling twenty miles?

    Nailing CC wich has been the way of life for a great many old school water travellers in favour of freeing mooring up for those fashionable young professionals and retired well offs is the opposite of a good thing from my point of few. It's effectively waterway gentrification and forces poorer folks of the water. I think it's a bastard thing to do in fact, especially as the rules have changed recentlyish.

    But hey, maybe you can afford it.

    Just a quick question, I'm sure many here will know the answer instantly. How hot (in °C) does the outside of your wood burner get on average? And how big is your wood burner? Thanks in advance.

    Why do you want to know? I measured mine with a laser thermometer once, about 280°C

    You could always carpet the corex with really thin carpet. We chuch hundreds of square metres of that stuff away at festivals and gigs, most tent and marquise companies on posher/bigger gigs just leave the stuff after one use and are happy for you to have it. Quite often they also leave the end of rolls around as they are not worth taking back for them.

    Could be a lightweight and free option to stop condensation for you.

    Now here is a vehicle topic know next to nothing about.
    I'm considering buying an ex military vehicle and was wondering how complicated the re-registration process is. My experience with the DVLA is that they make anything they can as difficult and expensive as they can and their customer service had more cuts than the benefit system in Tory years.
    Is there anyone here who has re-reistered an MOD vehicle or can tell me how complicated and expensive it is?


    I'd strongly recommend you change your garage for the testing. Where in the country are you too, surely somebody on here will have a recommendation for a decent testing station.

    I don't disagree with sharing the knowledge, I just like to have some control over who I share it with.

    In my region the council has dropped truckloads of gravel into the access to some of the nicer spots and the FC are starting too put up more beams in access tracks, mainly on spots that get trashed due to overuse.

    As a squatting crusty in a spray painted shitbucket I have to say that with careful choice of parking space I still don't get too much hassle. Depends massively on who lives next to where you park. One arsehole with a strange problem with travelling folks can make your life hell, no matter what are in.

    I had planned on sticking it to van sides using expanding foam, and using more foam on any gaps in between afterwards.
    Do you any alternative / better suggestions for either material or installation?

    Expanding foam is usually mildly hygroscopic, don't use it for bonding things that you want dry. Fill gaps with Kingspan, then tape over it with foil tape. Layer two layers of thin insulation foil taping both to minimise cold bridges.

    Main thing with 3.5 ton Luton vans is weight. It's less of a worry on newer shorter ones but still a tight game. Don't underestimate the weight wall cladding and furniture. In combination with potential water tanks if you're going to have a water system and a couple of gas bottles that's the main worry weight wise. It obviously also depends on how much tat and tools you own of course.
    I know of a few people in 3.5t Lutons that have built relatively light interiors and when going onto a weighbridge were surprised how heavy they actually were.

    Also into account should be taken the driver, passengers and a potentially full fuel tank. Two passengers and a driver at 80kg each and a full 60 litre diesel tank is already 290kg down. Add 2x200W Solar panels at 20ish kg each and two Leisure batteries, thats another 100 kg down.

    I reckon just panelling, passengers and a full fuel tank will leave you with maybe a ton to play. Not a lot for all of ones furniture and belongings.

    If you need to reinforce the roof use aluminium. There should be enough crossbars to support the roof mind.

    Cutting through on Luton vans isn't particularly worrysome as cab and Body sit usually on the same suspension and the cab doesn't tilt on van bases trucks. Different story on forward control trucks that tilt and often have the cab suspended separately.

    I'd use Celotex or Kingspan joined with aluminium tape for insulation, 4 inches if you can loose the space, two if you can't. 4 inches gives you a chance to overlap two layers of two inch insulation wich should make for less gaps in the insulation.
    Lutons are nice and square (mostly) so fitting rigid insulation shouldn't be problematic.
    I personally don't bother with floor insulation and generally insulating too much, I have a burner that basically stays hot most of the winter including nights. Insulating ceilings is really important mind, that's where lots of heat escapes. People used to live in coaches with lots of windows but they also used to have way larger burners including range cookers in some cases. More fuel intensive mind, so if getting wood or coal is a concern for you insulate more.
    The best trick against condensation apart from well joined insulation is regular airing and heating by the way. Lots of people ignore the airing part in winter because it's cold and are then surprised when their walls go green. One has to let the moisture escape somehow.

    Sorry for the slightly incoherent response, typing on my phone on a campsite in Iceland.

    I keep on repeating myself, but putting these spots online, especially open access, is daft for two reasons.

    Firstly it means any clown with a camper will soon turn up in your beloved quiet spot and secondly, the authorities in the business of making our lives hard have internet access as well, and at least sometimes are nowhere near as foolish as we'd like to think they are.

    Keep it quiet, keep it word of mouth. It'll last longer that way.

    My neighbour on site has one, he gets in between 16 and 19mph depending on condition. His is smaller than the one in the add wich is pushing 7.5ton size and probably weight limits. I'd weigh that before I bought it.

    I won't be showing many photos of the interior till I've weighed it because I'll probably get a dozen comments that it will be over weight which I don't think it will be. It's still sitting 2 inches higher than it was as an empty horsebox and the new interior is 3/4 fitted now.

    You pumped up the tires then?

    On a more serious note, everybody in a van should have at least one extinguisher and even more importantly a CO alarm and a smoke/fire alarm. Ideally also a way out directly by the bed.

    Thing is, its usually our kids or mates stood there, as they be more likely to give us a hand or see how we get on. Laughing would just get them knocked on their arse of a few chosen FFF words. : )

    I was of course not entirely serious. I shall add irony warnings and sarcasm tags in the future.

    /my personal favourite for self recovery is a 3m hand lever winch and three solid steel spikes. It's still better to have mates with big recovery trucks mind.

    I believe there is a system whereby you attach a pillar jack to each corner, lift the container, and then reverse the truck underneath it. I bet it's a bugger getting all the jacks to rise in sync. especially if you are on your own. :)

    That's really quite dangerous and getting the truck in the right place is near impossible.

    I always use an old dynamic climbing rope to tow vehicles out of been stuck, you do not need to snatch as it stretches, and has 2 ton breaking strain , so doubled/tripled .... up its plenty strong enough . It kind of catapults the stuck vehicle out!
    I use the towbar its self , but I have owned my vehicle from new and know its history.

    I just keep my mate and bis RL wrecker handy. That way I always get my bus out of the mud.