Posts by sloppycoder

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UKHippy is a long running online community and of likeminded people exploring all interpretations on what it means to be living an alternative lifestyle -- we welcome discussions on everything related to sustainability, the environment, alternative spirituality, music, festivals, politics and more -- membership of this website is free but supported by the community.

    Will be fine, had similar setup (single flue about 5ft long total, stickup above roof of about 4 inches, aluminium plate maybe 24" square) No issues/signs of melting. TBH don't think i ever even saw a spark come out the top.

    Twin wall flue will help with this but keep the inside of it clean(ish)! Especially if you burn a lot of wet or coniferous or treated wood. A chimney fire will probably fuck up your roof and terrify the pants off you too.

    Heya, Have added some albums, should be viewable? not quite understanding the uploads system so lemme know if theres any problem. Will try and do detailed ones of the new roof hatch over the next couple of weeks.

    One idea that worked really well was the partition wall behind the roller shutter with just enough depth that you can open the front door with the shutter still down. Gives you a nice little shed and somewhere you can go for a cheeky wee in the night. Also gives storage for footwear/coats firewood and other stuff. Mind you probably should have made the front door open inwards and then could have opted for a smaller "shed"

    First truck I lived in was a transit luton with fibreglass roof ,Lined the roof with plywood. Cut a rectangular hole in the roof above the bed and made a wood frame that sat a couple of inches above the level off the roof and glassfibred round the outside to seal it Made another frame that sat snuggly over roof inner frame out of 4x2 and covered it with a sheet of clear perspex. Whole thing was about 2 ftx 1 1/2ft and you could remove it completly or prop it which side you wanted . Held it inplace/ shut when moving with couple of gate catches , cost less than £20 and never leaked.

    Boom! There's your answer, did a similar thing myself on old luton van i used to live in.

    Dunno if this link will work but....…827185716_426186735_n.jpg

    Hard to see perhaps but if its that style of roof with fiberglass over galvanised steel ribs the ribs have a shelf you can use to get an anchor on. In this instance i made a inside frame out of 2 by 2 and sat it ontop of the "rib shelves" and secured to them with a few screws. Cut out all the fiberglass above the frame with a router then made a ~25mm riser out of plywood, painted well and screwed into the inner frame from outside. Works out really solid and gives a weatherproof seal against the original fiberglass roof. Lastly topped with a self made perspex box/window made by solvent welding.

    I'm just sizing up doing another one for my new truck but this time double glazed and made of polycarbonate for strength as the last one was a bit flimsy. Will try and do photos n that.

    Oh and to the naysayers, mine did leak a tiny bit early on due to a sealing error but was worth it 1000x over for the late night view of the stars, lying with it wide open in summer also very nice indeed.

    The biggest problem here is that you don't have a vapour barrier?! Warm air is meeting the cold surface of the vans metal, this equals moisture build up!

    When insulating a van you need to remember to do the following well

    Vapour barrier,

    Hey, just a quick question did you mean to say it in that order or was it supposed to be 1) insulation, 2) vapour barrier, 3)ventilation? I always thought the vapour barrier had to be on the warm side of the insulation. About to do a new conversion on a box van and want to be sure to get it right!!

    To the original poster i think spaddy and wandering gypsy got it bang right, warm air onto cold surface = condensation. Also the burner might help a bit if you also vent loads but the extra heat could also actually make things worse! The bigger the difference between inside and outside temperature the more condensation will be laid down on the cold surfaces so to cure it you need to get the insulation / vapour barrier issue licked. If that's a mind f**k (and it is!) have a play with this dew point calculator and you'll see what i mean;