Posts by stupot

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    Hey Andy. You should really give the above a try, it is as simple as it looks but when your doing it in front of a crowd it never fails to impress them & that usually translates into sales. To do it on the cheap you can use old cereal boxes instead of paper (whatever you use must have one 'shiny' side on which you paint). I managed to get hold of a consignment of misprinted posters which had been thrown out from a printers shop - all glossy & ideal. As for paint that can be had from pound stores so you see you can set yourself up for minimum outlay. A days practice should see you get the gist of the thing. Best to paint on the flat & put a protective cover down. Not good it it's windy & hot weather makes the paint dry uber fast so you have to be quick.

    As for prints (from watercolours only) I always paint no larger than A4 size. From then I simply place the original on my scanner/printer combo & do a high res scan. I then use thick decent quality paper to print as many prints as I like. These take two forms 'open' & 'limited' edition. Open edition means there is no limit to the amount you print, I usually set limited edition as between 50 to 100 copies thereafter no more are made. All are signed & numbered (IE 1 of 100) where appropriate. I find that people tend to prefer ltd edition as they feel they are getting something which may have more value.

    Give the spray painting a go, you may surprise yourself as to the results & thereafter what it can generate in terms of spending money! If I can be of any further assistance you or anyone else are free to message me.

    Thanks for the thoughts everyone. Just checking my MBB is working. Settling in for my first night. I'm on a caravan site just outside dear old Skeggy & am hoping to cash in on the Easter holiday trade (weather permitting of course ;)). Although I'm doing watercolours & oils - the latter in hot weather the stuff I do will be just really for demo purposes - I am hoping to sell signed ltd edition prints, at a fiver a time it should be within the grasp of most people. A few years ago I did a bit of 'spray art' at an event. basically that is using car spray paint to make artwork. I couldn't do them fast enough & was selling those at a fiver each. From memory I believe I sold about twenty in the space of about three hours. Perhaps not everyone can do the 'traditional' art thing but I would like to point you in the direction of that particular medium as it is quick & very easy to master & could perhaps prove a bit of a money spinner for those who want to have a go. There are loads of how to guides on you tube & I post one here as a taster.

    As an alternative to spray paints you can use felt tip pens & a little gadget found in most toy stores which acts as a sort of compressor/spray gun & blows the ink off the end of the pen. A lot less messy & can be safely used indoors if you want to build up stock to sell - You can do almost exactly the same effects as using paint.

    Hello everyone. I am just about to embark on my summer adventure (albeit a little adventure in terms of what some of you get up to) & will shortly be hooking my little touring caravan up & heading off to the coast. I know where I'm headed but have deliberately not over planned beyond that - a pinch of uncertainty adding to my anticipation. This is a dry run for the future, spending six months caravan dwelling & making my living (well hopefully anyway) as an artist. That last part is thus; I will be setting up my easel at various 'choke points' in seaside towns & painting & hopefully selling originals - but more likely prints - to the tourists. The prints will be priced at a fiver a pop. My aim is to cover my expenses, anything beyond that is a bonus. I know I can make money from my artwork as I have been doing so for the past twelve years or so but I want to try & make it give me a living. I hope to keep you all updated over the coming months.

    Wish me luck.................

    That's interesting to hear. Last time I bought some PVA was about eight quid a gallon, perhaps best to buy two lots & spread it liberally over the vans roof with a paint roller?

    I've used creeping crack stuff in the past but didn't mention it because I thought it may need too much spreading & so be expensive but am glad to hear you too got good results from it. Not sure about the long term abilities of PVA though, thinking it would deteriorate & wash off in little time if used outside. Seen the following, it's clear as well.…%3D10%26sd%3D350408643974

    Hey, have you thought of using one of the proprietary roof sealants (as used on flat roofs) I don't know if you're bothered about appearance though. If not you could apply this with a brush or roller across the whole of the roof area. You could do a neat job but you'd end up with a black roof.

    Wow the memories come flooding back! Dansette I had one of those - well technically it was my sisters but I purloined it occasionally! Anyone remember listening to 'Radio Luxemburg' in the seventies? I had a twenty forth hand radio, a big square thing with faux leather covering. I listened to Emperor Rosco & had to retune every few minutes as the signal would fade. Also 'cos I didn't have a money for a new battery I used to sit the 'everlast' on the window sill to warm up in the sunshine in an attempt to prolong its life! It may have been the first attempt at harnessing solar power!

    Andy you may be able to settle this question for me. I believe that if you buy/own land in Scotland then you are able to live on it in a van or caravan etc. Am I correct? If so are there any restrictions?

    Also with regard to the tourist thing I remember seeing a bloke who was van dwelling around the banks of Loch Ness who made his living selling little self made clay 'nessies' to the tourists.

    Thanks fraggle. I had thought of a pressure relief valve but was unsure if any were available & now you mention it of course the old rad caps used were this type of thing (those were the days - no expansion tanks then)

    I had thought of adapting an element from one of those 12v kettles, re sited in a suitable container, to be plugged in on the move for however long it takes to heat the water to the desired temperature so that it would be good to go when you stopped for washing etc. However, as I mentiioned earlier, I was trying to think of a way to make use of what would otherwise be waste energy.


    In place of a header tank couldn't expansion be allowed for by not filling the pipework up? I did reckon on a longish run to heat the water. I remember when I was a kid my dad had a split screen VW camper, we were going on holiday & pulled over for a 'comfort break'. I opened the little sink to wash my hands & instead of cold water piping hot came out. Bemused I told my dad & after investigation he found the LNS brake was binding. The water tank must have been located in the vicinity because the heat generated by the friction had brought a full tank of water almost to the boil! This was after about 45 miles.

    I am concentrating on recyling heat/energy which otherwise be lost, hence the exhaust thing. Perhaps a far less complicated method of heating a little water with which to wash the dishes or hands & face would be to place a metal army water canteen (these can be had very cheaply & are made out of aluminium) on the manifold once you have reached your destination. It will take a while to heat & not get very hot anyway but just a thought in order to make use of all that lovely heat which will otherwise dissipate into the ether.

    I've got quite a few crackpot ideas so, if anyone is interested, I may start a new thread to allow us to share our Heath Robinson moments.

    Oh before anyone points it out - to empty park the vehicle nose up on a bit of a gradient!

    If the shower pipe stuff contains rubber or is not suitable in some other way ordinary copper pipe could be used (may be a bit noisy though) with a flexible pipe to fill?

    Another crazy Idea so please feel free to shoot me down in flames. What about utilising the heat generated by the exhaust pipe to produce a source of hot water? Now I'm thinking right off the top of my head here but a length of pipe - the flexible stuff which is used in showers - wrapped around the exhaust pipe & fixed so that it can move in tandem with the exhaust. An inlet somewhere in the van to fill the pipe & an outlet tap at the back end of the vehicle (where the exhaust protrudes) If wound tightly enough with a long length of pipe the yield could possibly be a gallon or so of hot if not almost boiling water. Even though the exhaust & anything round it is exposed to wind etc but those of us who have touched an exhaust on a vehicle which has been run for a little while will testify - despite wind/water etc - they get damn hot!

    Your thoughts please.

    I once had the crazy idea of mounting a second alternator on the roof of the vehicle with a car/van fanblade attached so that - by utilising the wind generated by the forward motion of the vehicle - it would turn/charge a second battery!

    Given the fact I know ziltch about electrics I don't know if this would have been even remotely feasible but I'm sure someone will point out that it was a fantastically bad idea!

    An unusual yet interesting thread. If you know how to do it you can quite easily conceal both yourself & even a quite sizable vehicle to the point that someone would have to be within thirty metres to spot it. There are things called 'obvious points of cover' which if the feds/rioters/zombies/the taxman are looking for you they will be sure to search but it would remain perfectly feasible to make yourself disappear within the 'confines' of the UK without the benefit of a cloak of invisibility. You can take both food & water from the land (& sky). The thing about survival/E&E is the correct mental attitude, without that you'd be screwed.

    I have a small mig set, and have managed to repair a wheel arch and get it through an MOT, but my standard of welding isnt great, I need to practice more, car thickness metal is very difficult for a beginner.
    I have also been known in the past to use filler, with a door hinge embedded in it to make it magnetic enough to pass a test using a magnet - that too has got me through an MOT in the past.

    You can also use a flattened out tin can!

    Yep if a professional offers to teach you then the best advice is snap his hand off! As for the engine mount another fairly straightforward job. If you haven't got a hoist you can always use a trolly jack. Chock some wood under it & bring it to level (so the weight of the engine is being supported & the pressure is off the mount, undo the mounting bolts then lift clear, put the new mount in & tighten. It's usually the rubbers which perish on those things.

    I was a panel beater not a mechanic but did mess about with simple stuff/servicing etc.

    Chaps, just something to think about. It's not difficult to learn how to weld especially if you use a Mig welder. I picked one up a few years ago for thirty five quid from someone I know. I had only stick welded beforehand & had basically had forgotten that! After half a days practice I was able to weld to acceptable standards. Remember it doesn't have to be pretty, just strong. I lent my welder to a mate who had no experience of welding at all &, after some practice on scrap bits of metal, he welded what amounted to a whole new underside into a MOT failure car. It passed the next two tests before he sold it.
    Mig welding for beginners (no it's not presented by Steven Hawkins!)
    Arc (stick) welding for beginners as presented by a charismatic young fella.

    Arc welder can also be had cheap - you probably can hire welders too. A little practice would see you able to tackle your own repairs. You just need someone to fire watch for you inside the vehicle just to make sure nothing gets alight.

    Perhaps this should be looked upon as an important skill for those who make vehicles their home.

    Without wishing to cast aspersions was the garage one of those who advertise very cheap MOTs with no retest fee? Sometimes some of these places will create work for themselves if you know what I mean. I'm just going with what you thought prior to having it tested. If so & if I were you I'd take the van for a test somewhere else just to see what they come up with. It may pass. If you think it's worth spending the forty odd quid on doing so, give it a try.

    This is a great piece of information. I hope you can get some clarification from your source.

    According to the newspaper report above the lane is owned by the council. Quoting the third line from the bottom:

    'The lane is owned by the borough council and the authority told the Post it had received complaints about the parked cars.'

    Named road or not it is still council property, just like a car park & will come under local bylaws for such things.

    Out of interest I wonder what these cars look like? I've tried to get a photo of the scene but without success. the newspaper report I got was dated Monday, March 28, 2011 so this saga has been ongoing for some time.

    Check the date here (the text is the same as the report which has already been posted above).


    Vehicles registered on SORN (statutory off road notification) are bound by the following regulations…ory-off-road-notification

    I fear your friends father has nowhere to go with this one as he was in breach of the rules which he agreed to abide by in applying for SORN in the first place. TBH I reckon he may have gotten away rather lightly as he could have been prosecuted for breaching SORN.

    I Have a vehicle currently on SORN which is stored in a garage - no need for insurance but I cannot use it/park it on any public road.

    Is the lane a private road? If not then, even if the cars are on SORN (which means they are to be kept off road - including parked off road) there's not a deal you can do about it. If the vehicles are on private property to tow them without first going through the due processes of notification would be illegal. If they are parked in a council car park they can still be towed. Do you know if any tickets had been issued to the vehicles?

    Also are you sure it was the council & not DVLA? They have mobile patrols equipped with number plate recognition cameras & they do fine/clamp/tow illegally parked vehicles.

    In any event the cars still belong to your friends dad & he can get them back - but will have to pay costs. It will be cheaper to get them back from the council than the DVLA.

    PS: I just hate this petty officialdom - I did read about a chap who collected Trabant cars & kept loads of them on his land. After a protracted battle with the LA he was forced to remove some because they were an 'eyesore'. They didn't just come & tow them though which leads me to think that the vehicles in question are parked on a public road.

    Zimee, I like people who are both inventive & can think outside the box. I hope this can work out for you.

    BTW aren't the planning laws in Scotland with regard to this sort of thing wholly different? I thought I heard somewhere that you could live on a parcel of land without PP & all the bulsh which the English jobsworth planners are so fond of.

    I don't know if this is correct but would I'm sure someone will be able to confirm/deny it.

    DrW good on you if you are stuffing it to the authorities.

    When I contacted a LPO in Lincolnshire with a view to putting a touring caravan on a plot of land I was told unequivocally that even to site the thing for storage purposes would require PP as it would be deemed change of use for the property.

    Your (& anyone elses') thoughts please..................

    Try getting Dum Dum now... not easy

    I tried getting some a few years ago & was met with blank looks. No one had ever heard of it! (They musta thought I was after some bullets!)

    As for the farecla I mentioned in another post, that will make even poor spraying look acceptable. Apply it as you would a polish (but better to do it with a buffer though it will still work by hand) across the repair & onto the panel to remove overspray & it will polish & blend the new paint with the old. It's quite expensive but well worth it.

    Speaking of aluminum, aluminum mesh is as good way of patching largish holes. Remove rust from the area to be repaired & making sure you get onto good metal, work from the rear of the wheel arch you apply the mesh with filler then, once set, fill prime, paint as previously mentioned. I also used to use stuff (though never professionally) called 'Red Lead'. It was thick paint that was unsurprisingly red & contained lead! I'd gloop that stuff behind wheel arches etc over & beyond the area of the repair. It was good as a rust inhibitor but it probably has been banned nowadays. We also used to use stuff called 'Dum Dum' which was like black putty which was brilliant for stopping water ingress through window rubbers when the latter was causing problems.

    Given that pinkrach states the rust is cosmetic IMO there's no need for 'major surgery', though you are right, if its beyond the pail the only way to do it properly is to replace the affected panel, sill etc. Seeing as it looks like they also don't know how to weld, rather than patching with fresh metal pinkrach could do the same with fibreglass, Worked in from the inside of the panel (after removing all rust, old underseal etc) patch the hole then fill, sand, prime & paint as normal. I've also seen examples of repairs on wheel arches & bottoms of doors where the 'repairer' has cut out a sheet of metal & pop riveted it over the hole!