Posts by astartosteerby

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    Clean the glass of your stove with a 4:1 mix of wood/turf ash and bicarb of soda, with enough flash liquid to turn it to slurry.


    Keep a large plastic jug by your sinks and basins. When running off water from the hot tap, fill the jug until the hot comes through. Then use the jug when you want cold water instead of turning on the cold tap. I watch my water meter and it does make a difference.

    I don't have a fridge in my camper, takes up too much room and don't need it anyway. As previously said:


    Wrap your milk cartons in a damp dishcloth, evaporative cooling works better then immersing in water.
    Buy little and often.
    Be prepared to eat a bit of meat two days running to avoid having it hanging around.
    Tinned food is great, never goes off while it's unopened.


    Lived in my van for three months this summer, only times I got caught out was with milk before I started using the wet dishcloth.

    A while back I noticed a couple of sunloungers someone chucked in the hedge just up the road from my house. We had good weather last week so I had a look at them, having previously assumed they were broken, and found they just needed a clean up! Trouble is I get woken up by Germans putting their towels on them at 5 am.

    Couple of good ideas on this thread regarding showers. Regarding water containers I have two 10 litres cans under my sink. This is about the largest size that will fit under there. They are clearly marked and I find that the waste one is only between half and two thirds full when the fresh supply is empty. I cured the spillage problem by putting a bit of foam pipe insulation around the pipe and into the neck of the can. With just me and with somewhere else to shower I find that the 10 litre lasts two days.

    Seems a harmless old buffer, hurting nobody but can't be left alone of course. Usual excuse of "Health and Safety" used to bring him into line, "Environmental protection" would be another one.

    For info for my conversion - search for ldv camper conversion on ukh - I mostly used this site, it really is the best if you're on a budget. If you have a bit of cash then join the self build motor caravan club (SBMCC) for around £20. I also found a Haynes manual 'build your own motor caravan' useful.

    I've got a Convoy with a woodburner so the following might help.


    A woodburner is more than just a space heater in a camper, it's a clothes drier, source of comforting light after dark, paper and cardboard waste incinerator, and hotplate. I wouldn't be without mine. In towns burn those firelog things, expensive but no smoke is produced.


    The amount of electrical storage capacity needed is a kind of balancing act. The more electrical gear you have, the more battery/charging capacity you'll need. I have one 115Ah battery, charged from the vehicle circuit at the moment although a solar panel will go in later. There's no split charger, I just plug it in to the vehicle circuit when I give it a run. I also keep an ordinary battery charger as Alice suggested for an emergency charge up, but have never needed it so far. It helps that I only have two fluorescent lights and a water pump to run, so have never had a problem with a low or flat battery.


    And there's no such thing as a simple girl!

    Living in a damp climate I get serious slug attacks. The most effective way I found is to go out before bedtime with a torch and a sharp pointy thing - I use half an old hacksaw blade ground to a point - and let the slaughter commence. Never mind the karma, your lettuce will thank you. Until you eat them, of course.

    Don't rush out and buy glass demijohns, gallon spring water containers do just as well. Just leave the screw top slightly loose to allow excess pressure to escape. Keep you eyes open for wine bottles in hedgerows, skips, anywhere really. Or scrounge from friends wealthy enough to pay the government tax on bought wine.

    That wasn't my experience Firetree, I'm just back from 12 weeks working in south Devon, staying on a camp site. There are park ups alright, but I only found them after being in the place a couple of weeks and keeping my eyes open, and they're not all that common. All the council run car parks have no sleeping notices, and decent laybys (those with a bit of land between layby and road) are only found on trunk roads. I found the best places are those parking bays in towns which restrict you to one or two hours up until 6pm, after which they can be overnighted on without problems. Occasionally a small village with restricted access has it's own car park which can be overnighted in, sometimes with a small honesty box for a quid or two. These are only found by searching though. Good luck!

    I'm pretty certain that any armoured van is scrapped at the end of it's life. I worked on the Cash in Transit side of Securicor for a year or so and that's what we were told. The armour plate was apparently reused in new conversions, all of which were carried out by Bedwas Bodywork, a Securicor subsidary, in South Wales somewhere.

    My van's well insulated, which works both ways keeping heat out as well as in. Covering Sunnyside windows prevents heat build up from solar gain, while the less than hermatic seals on LDV doors ensure some through airflow even when closed. Am still going to put in a roof light though.

    I'd leave any reinforcing ribs where they are if I were you, they're there for a purpose! Probably to sop the roof caving in in a roll over, as I don't think they're actually attached to the roof panel. Have a look at my thread "ldv convoy camper conversion", there's some images there of insulation and a ply ceiling. 3mm ply is flexible enough to follow the fairly flat profile of a convoy roof so long as the grain goes lengthwise. I fixed the ply straight to the rib using small self tapping screws, they have a square recess to take a square driver bit that comes with them. I was told when I bought them that they were specially designed for ply lining vans, but that may just have been sales talk.

    I joined the sbmcc when I started my conversion, but it cost around 19 quid I think, and tbh I found the advice freely given on this site to b just s helpful. Rather more relevant too, as the sbmcc gang seem to work to higher budgets than us scruffy lot of drop outs.

    I have a fibre glass bodied reliant which I've crunched a couple of times and repaired with the kits you get from diy shops or motor factors. as has been said, very easy to use., they come with instructions.

    I had the clutch cable go on my LDV convoy last week again it was the plastic fitting at the pedal end that broke. I managed to bodge it by drilling a hole through the remains of the fitting to push part of a roofing nail through, then made a loop from fencing wire around this to hook over the clutch pedal. That was the easy bit, getting it adjusted took an hour by wrapping rope between n the adjuster and bulkkhed to take up the slack. Even then I only had half the travel, but was enough to allow the engine to run while stationary in gear. I saved the old cable and will make a better bodge so I have a spare.

    This site works for me pretty much as it is, and I don't think a majority Tory government is going to make much difference to the likes of us one way or another. All of the major parties like order and conformity, and so would be at odds with many of the values we live by.

    I agree totally with nomadicrt. I have an ldv convoy with the ford banana engine with no software or electronics whatsoever. You don't need 'em and will only cause headaches when they fail, which thy will on an older vehicle. While this necessarily means going for an older vehicle, you have. Fighting chance t least of a roadside repair.

    I'm in camp in my garden, have been for few years now, only ever had one tent staying! I charge 6 Euros a night, but that includes use of bathroom and being helpful generally.