Battery to battery charger RSCDC30 ring automotive

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  • I've launched a similar thread before. This one is primarily intended to warn off potential buyers of the:


    Ring battery to battery charger

    RSCDC30

    Ring automotive solar controller


    I've had two in 30 months. Neither performed as advertised and both failed.


    That public service done..... Which battery to battery charger do you use and for how long and what effect does it have on your leisure battery?

  • Before buying another B2B charger, have you checked out your charging system wiring thoroughly? Many systems can be improved just by upgrading the charge cables to a fatter cable, and this includes the Earth return cables/straps.Some good advice about this here.


    Just asking, because I used to work on alternator systems, and quite a lot of problems were caused by thinner-than-optimum cabling and poor connections, particularly Earth connections. It was/is quite possible to buy a s/h vehicle where some wiseguy has replaced charging cables with whatever was handy when the originals went down, and what looks okay sometimes isn't. (I've come across house-wiring being used on more than one occasion!).

  • I have bought the ctek d250se and its working well as far as I can measure (using a volt meter) I'm waiting on a non contact dc ammeter to improve my ability to diagnose such issues.....so far though it appears that my connections and 8mm2/ 8awg wiring are sound and suitable and the product I'm twice dissing is of very, very poor quality.


    I'm pissed off because I cant get money from ring automative to compensate for damage to the leisure battery and can't mess up their false promise business model.


    The units they are supplying are clearly not properly stress tested and they are fucking over consumers like me who believe that the product will perform as advertised.


    This product is a dud.


    I will not buy anything from this manufacturer in the future

  • Post by Wulfie ().

    This post was deleted by the author themselves ().
  • Before buying another B2B charger, have you checked out your charging system wiring thoroughly? Many systems can be improved just by upgrading the charge cables to a fatter cable, and this includes the Earth return cables/straps.Some good advice about this here.


    Just asking, because I used to work on alternator systems, and quite a lot of problems were caused by thinner-than-optimum cabling and poor connections, particularly Earth connections. It was/is quite possible to buy a s/h vehicle where some wiseguy has replaced charging cables with whatever was handy when the originals went down, and what looks okay sometimes isn't. (I've come across house-wiring being used on more than one occasion!).

    I totally agree with this even if I am using house wiring between my driving battery and my leisure battery to charge the batteries in the back when I am on the road :eek:


    I certainly would not use it for anything up front though :angel:

  • Thanks for your public service announcement, zendaze!


    I use a CTEK M300 on the boat for charging four linked 125aH leisure batteries (working out how to link them was a bit of a puzzle, but I got there in the end). I'm on my second charger. The first one failed after about five years. This one's been going for three so far. I bought these batteries new about seven years ago.

  • folk traveler’s often overlook Ohm’s Law. It’s a law init, nowt for me there. Cable/wire gauge is really important when dealing with battery/current flow / charger unit assessments and battery balancing. To some extent the bigger the better in the right sort of materials. My mates paronoid about vehicle electrical fires. He uses barbed wire just to be sure - only joking:D


    silver foil wrap off wrigley’s chewing gum sticks makes for strong fuses. Not true but it can get the TV working again. :reddevil:

  • Thanks for your public service announcement, zendaze!


    I use a CTEK M300 on the boat for charging four linked 125aH leisure batteries (working out how to link them was a bit of a puzzle, but I got there in the end). I'm on my second charger. The first one failed after about five years. This one's been going for three so far. I bought these batteries new about seven years ago.

    I’m using a Ctek M200. Had that for six years. Although I don’t use it in a marine environment. I can recommend this unit for big road rigs. Had two other MXS Ctek charges that died, one got submerged in water for a long period (storage box with leaky lid) and the other just developed a problem which blew internal fuse. I broke into that unit and replaced internal fuse, but fault persisted. Scrapped both units.

  • I totally agree with this even if I am using house wiring between my driving battery and my leisure battery to charge the batteries in the back when I am on the road :eek:


    I certainly would not use it for anything up front though :angel:

    So long as you aren't putting large currents through the house wiring, which you won't be if it's just charging a leisure battery in a leisurely fashion, your wiring should be okay if thick enough.:thumbup:

    But you'll know all about that, of course:). Sadly, some people don't.

  • I have heard lots of bad things about the ring unit, but the ctek unit is severely restricted in terms of the maximum wattage solar panel you can connect to it. You also need to buy the separate smartpass unit to get a decent charge rate.


    Ultimately you are better off avoiding units which claim to do a couple of functions and buy one unit for each. In this case a dedicated solar controller and a dedicated b2b charger would be the optimal setup.


    As above, quality cabling including correctly terminated crimps and earths are a major factor in the performance of low voltage systems.


    As for a cheap b2b unit, i am playing with a solar controller and 24 volt alternator wired to the solar input. Seems to work well and is a lot lot cheaper than one of the quality dedicated b2b systems available on the market.

  • Thanks all for the replies so far.


    I have the ctek m100 for ac hook up (these units are gaurenteed for 5 years.... So extra thanks fellas for confirming that they might actually function for five years) for the rare times I'm hooked up to ac power (100 ah agm leisure battery). It treats the battery to a conditioned trickle charge or supplements power from battery to 12v roof fans (I can power everything else from ac hook up) thanks to the 'pass through' power function of the ac to 12v charger.


    Id agree that a solar controller separate from b2b charger is more sensible: more redundancy


    The ctek d250se b2b charger has a max charge rate of 20amps but is a sealed unit without a fan (dust and splash proof) except for the exposed terminals that are not really idiot proof.


    20 amps is the correct max recommended charge rate for my 100ah agm battery. (battery fluid will boil away otherwise)


    Batteries that are topped up with fluid can take higher amps if regularly topped up.


    The solar/wind/whatever handling of this ctek d250se is also specified as quite low.


    Without further info about sterling, able mail and other companies offering b2b chargers I'm working on the necessary assumption (I want power for mobile WiFi and phone and light and preferably for roof fans) that this sealed unit from a conscientious and idiot proof brand promises less than its somewhat more complicated and experimental competitors.


    It is only 20 amps max and will not handle much solar but hopefully it will perform as specified due to the high value that the brandname holds in these markets.


    I don't know what the other quality conscious b2b charger brands are because my search was exhausted by YouTube hits on nothingness and my desire for power exceeded my searching skills and patience. Which is why I am asking the question right here in this forum.

  • There was an od thread that i cannot locate where I recomendrd one of these ..

    https://www.diy.com/department…ery-charger/258249_BQ.prd


    mine is still going strong after 4 years and only downside is the fan can be a tad noisy when it starts to throw the amps in, on the bright side its down to 41 quid !!


    on a lighter note , whats this red light on my earth strap ??


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