LDV Steering box replacement

Welcome to UKHIppy2764@2x.png

UKHippy is a long running online community and of likeminded people exploring all interpretations on what it means to be living an alternative lifestyle -- we welcome discussions on everything related to sustainability, the environment, alternative spirituality, music, festivals, politics and more -- membership of this website is free but supported by the community.

  • OK so as expected our LDV needs the steering box for the test. Bought a replacement, no problem. Getting the old one off, on the other hand, big problem. All the bolts are out. It just won't come off the chassis. My mate had hammered it with a 4lb hammer for hours. He's kinked the chassis hanging off a bar trying to lever it off. He's tried heat, cos the box is fucked anyway so we don't care if it damages the seals.
    Is there any trick or advice I can offer him?


  • Did the drop arm come of easy ? When I took one of a vehicle I was scrapping ages ago , I seem to remember cutting it out , obviously not an option for you . I guess you could smash the one up you want to remove with angle grinder,chisle ,club hammer and a lot of time and swearing.

  • The steering box goes through the chassie ? Doesn't it, so you have to remove drop arm to change box ? or am I thinking of another vehicle .

    The steering box has a big locator bulge that houses a bearing. It fits into a recess or hole in the chassis. That's where it's rusted to the van.

  • Is it possible to cut away the s/box from around the locator recess, leaving only the rusted bearing ring or hemisphere. Then cut that out carefully using a dremel, or splitting the remaing rusty bearing ring with a chisel?

  • Have come across this in the past, last resort involved , cutting section of chassis out , with box,, new section welded in and new box in . This is a fairly time consuming job with scope for disaster obviously. Mod and territorial army/ reserves/ cadets used hundreds of these vehicles, many were low mileage but rusted like wildfire due to sitting still for long periods, any good reme or rct people should know about these. I know this might be very controversial, but if you approach terry army units they are made up of quite friendly people who MIGHT offer some knowledgable help for low cost, beer !

  • Just checked the entire post details, you've obviously started the job! Getting the van about might therefore be a , er problem. Sorry for suggesting something that is clearly impossible !!

  • One or two thoughts come to mind. First, without cutting anything out. I know you have tried heat. Have you tried soaking the rusted area in something like Plus-Gas? If you can get to it without opening up the chassis.(The poor person's alternative is vinegar, left for a day or two). In addition, tapping persistently with small hammer around the rusted area to try to get the vibration to loosen the rust enough to give you a start turning the box.
    If you have to resort to cutting....
    Are you able to get a welder in to cut the chassis section out and replace it, as splitshift suggests? (A pro welder, not a chap with a stick welder from Aldi).
    Obviously you would need to get the replacement section first, c/u and in good order. I have replaced many chassis sections on vans in the days when they had proper chassis sections, but it is a job that has to be done very carefully in your case, with accurate measurements taken before and after, and everything jigged tight so nothing moves.

    If you cannot get a replacement section off another chassis, it may be possible to make something up from HD channel of the same dimensions, shaping it to accept your bearing as required, and making a bearing housing from suitable steel pipe offcut welded into place. You then cut your chassis section out and accurately weld the new section in.
    As splitshift suggests, this is a grueller of a job.

  • Well at least that 'how high' comment made me smile.
    I am looking at getting a donor van! A mate of mine (who has given me an honest description) is selling a likely candidate. The van was bought for export that fell through, and has also been let down on ebay. He drove the van 80 miles and says the steering is spot on. Both axles on the donor have been rebuilt.
    We bought brand new drag link ends, and the old ones were knackered so fitting the new bits may improve things, but I know the steering box won't get better.
    Watch this space!

  • Cant offer any useful advice on this but I do hope the solution is cheap smooth running and all works out well for you....

    Have a similar problem with leaf springs.... ordered one, wasnt right ( according to an MOT guy) took it back. Factors tried to order another one... they sent out the same thing again. Had to go back.
    Got the right one ... took it to garage, only to be told by the mechanic we need the other type. So its a whole load of faffing about to go get the original one we ordered.
    I just hope the nice mechanic (with the lovely South African accent) manages to get the leaf spring on without too much hammering and brut force. Though I have a feeling that the original broken leaf spring thats on old Lenny, may have become "one" with the van :S

  • Well, we never could get the steering box off! BUT! The drag link ends were done and he just managed to get a spanner in to adjust the box, also one of the UJs on the column had some play in it. Between those three the play in the wheel is well within the tolerances for the test. Then the handbrake cable snapped. FFS!! Tester is now on holiday!! Good job we bought that spare van.....