Posts by Rick69

    Cheers Wulfie, I wasn't planning on connecting it to a boiler/radiators etc.

    We are in a bungalow and have a 5kw burner in the living room. Once the room is hot if you open the door it warms the rest of the house bearing in mind we dont like hot bedrooms its adequate.

    I did at one point cut a 4 inch hole in the lounge and bedroom ceiling and install an inline shower fan to suck hot air out of the lounge and into the bedroom, worked a treat but it made the bedroom too hot for us so no longer used.


    For just a woodburner i'd say that it was a pricey job. Also bear in mind if you go over 5kw you need to install permanently open vents into your room which means draughts and kind of defeats the point of the burner.

    My brother in law has a hergom range type woodburner with backboiler that has been heating his house and hot water for over five years now.


    We originally installed it in parallel with the gas boiler as all the advice he was given was that it wouldnt be enough, it's more than up to the job. Bearing in mind that my sister in one of these people who likes to have windows open all day with the fire going, the house is still hot. He does go through a bitof wood, but hes a part time tree surgeon, and works on the steelworks with ready access to pallets and hardwood train carriage chocks so it doesnt cost anything to run.

    We put it on ourselves - its in the garage which is attached to the house. Was put on a concrete slab that we laid with angle iron at the front to stop stray sparks etc, and a twinwall flue comes out the back to a t piece for access to sweep flue, then straight up through the flat concrete roof. Building regs came out an inspected it (after he was bubbled by a neighbour) and passed it with flying colours although it was them that insisted on the concrete hearth (on top of the concrete floor)


    We piped it up with a thermostat on the outlet of the backboiler so that when you light it, the central heating pump automatically kicks in to pump water round the system, there is a pressure relief valve in the outlet as well should the pump fail or there be a power cut. There is a 3 way valve in the house that allows heating of the hot water and radiators, thermostat on the tank so it cuts off to heating only when the water gets hot. There is no stat on the heating as you dont want the pump turning off.


    The double skinned flue i think cost around 5 or 6 hundred off ebay including the cowl for the top (single storey), the burner was about £400 off ebay plus some diesel to pick it up and the rest was pretty much free.


    You can do a lot of the work yourself if you download and comply to the appropriate building regs

    https://www.planningportal.co.…_and_fuel_storage_systems


    The burner he has is this one, you can get them without the oven so just the burner and backboiler.



    House up the road has had the heating system ripped out and replaced with a combi.


    So, out in the yard was 2x22mm two port motorised valves with actuators, nearly new (looking) grundfos circulation pump, magnetic sludge filter, automatic bypass valve, copper hot water cylinder, old copper tubing, new short offcuts of copper tubing, box containing some odd unused fittings, valves etc, few lengths of pipe lagging, few other bits and a boiler.


    Chapped on the door fully expecting to be told they were wanted and the guy said the plumber is back Monday, but that's all the old stuff so yes take it!


    I fully expect that there will be a very pissed off plumber in the village Monday who was going to be weighing that lot in after he finished the job.... :pp

    Settled in room - night of Pink Floyd / David Gilmour on the telly.

    Several large bottles of reduced to 50p each Tyskie.

    Dog is sat on my lap.

    Fires on.

    Bottle of Southern Comfort in the fridge next to the lager.

    Update:


    Fires gone out, however room stil hot.

    Several empty bottles, Southern Comfort bottle looking sorry for itself.

    Dogs fucked off to bed - lazy bastard!

    Pink Floyd still on telly though, David Gilmour to come so all good... :rock:

    Galaxy young 2, and recently wombled a s3 mini thats older but faster than current phone that i might swap to as its rooted and debloated.


    Makes calls, sends texts and i can view this site (albeit slowly) when out if required.

    Also stores a load of music for plugging into the van when we're out.

    Settled in room - night of Pink Floyd / David Gilmour on the telly.

    Several large bottles of reduced to 50p each Tyskie.

    Dog is sat on my lap.

    Fires on.

    Bottle of Southern Comfort in the fridge next to the lager.

    The ebay stat isnt actually required, the fridge stat will do but you will have to leave the inverter powered on all the time.


    I will be fitting one so i can set a precise temperature, and also to allow me to switch the inverter off when it isnt required for running the fridge.

    That sounds like the route I may go with now. What size inverter would I need to run one and any idea on power draw?

    The size of the inverter depends partly on the quality of the inverter. A cheap inverter may cut out when the compressor starts, a better one may run it. The higher power inverter you get the more likely it is to run it effectively. The fridge will draw a certain wattage when running, but the starting surge will be much higher - the only way you will know for sure is to try it on the inverter you intend to use.


    The inverter will draw more current than the 10a a 3 way fridge will draw, but phase change cooling rather than absorbtion is more efficient, and the insulation will be better so OVERALL over the day you will use less current to achieve the same temperature. So long as you have decent solar and sun (or whatever method you use for charging) and a decent set of batteries you will be fine.


    You can improve the efficiency further by ducting cool air from outside over the condenser at the back of the fridge, the cooler you get it the less work the compressor has to do as the discharge pressure will be lower.

    If you have the space and can put up with the inconvenience then a top loader is the way to go in efficiency terms because as NRT states it stops all the air you have chilled spilling ouyt when you open the door.


    However the downsides are that unless what you want is at the top its a lot of fucking about to get to anything, anything at the bottom might well end up being crushed and you cant build a unit for it to fit under unless you make that lift up as well.

    As well as this, they tend to run at a lower evaporating temperature than a fridge so you could well end up with the stuff next to the evap frozen solid.


    I think overall the best compromise is a modern A++ fridge with a £30 ebay electronic stat and either an inverter or retrofit a 12v fridge compressor (which would be expensive if you didnt have the gear to do it yourself)

    IIRC shrooms 10a is about right. If you can put some ice in the fridge and minimize the time the door is open you may be able to cut down on the power use.


    Personally i prefer a compressor fridge, the 12v one i currently have draws 4a when running and is quiet. Downside is they are expensive but if you keep hunting on ebay bargains often turn up. Search terms such as boat fridge, waeco, compressor fridge etc should turn something up.


    The next one i get will be a aaa rated domestic one powered via inverter with retro fitted thermostatic control. Theres plenty of argument on the interweb about whether this is inefficient or not but IMO a properly insulated domestic fridge will keep things cold longer meaning the compressor has to run less which will overall be more efficient. Plus a nearly new domestic fridge can be had for under £50 on ebay, gumtree etc.

    The disappointing thing was almost 1000 emails bouncing back to me (mostly old hotmail accounts) before the emailer froze without me knowing how far it got.


    I'm quietly confident that building some momentum is possible though.


    One thing i did notice on my tablet when you moved to the new software is that i could no longer access it using my old bookmarked link. Is the URL different, or it was possibly a cache issue. I deleted the bookmark, cleared cache and clicked the forum link from the uk hippy main page so didn't actually check whether the link was any different.


    Others could maybe be using the old link and not being able to view the site are thinking that it is still down?


    EDIT: Just checked on a desktop machine, the old saved link was ukhippy.com/stuff/forum.php.

    This brings up an internal server error page.

    Link for forum now appears as ukhippy.com/forum.


    Maybe a pm telling people to discard bookmarks and use the main page may get people back, or a redirect from the old link, or change the error message to direct people to the new link?

    Maybe just trying to distract us from the fucking john lewis ad that everyone keeps going on about..


    And ive so far managed to avoid...



    As you say though Keith, there is almost certainly an ulterior motive, things like this attract attention whilst other news like millions of pounds worth of tax avoidance attracts a headline or two then is forgotten.

    If it doesnt work then turning it upside down for a period of time reportedly yields some good results.


    BTW butch, you dont actually need the vents if you are not using it on gas although it will warm the van interior up. This is not ideal but i only mention it as you say you have no tools for cutting the vents in. For temporary short term use ventless on 12v is an option.

    anyone any idea how hard they are to convert from liquid to vapour take off?

    Some are as easy as taking one of the blanking plugs out of the top if fitted. Youd have to email seller and ask if they have extra threaded plugs.


    If it hasnt got an auto shut off filler valve then fit upside down for really easy...

    There will always be a power loss converting voltages and ac to dc however you do it.


    It may not always be convenient, but if If you need to charge 12 volt batteries with a generator, the most efficient method is to use a 12 volt dc generator designed for the job.


    Efficient = uses less fuel.

    There is more to efficiency than fuel use. Charging a 12v battery from the 12v output of a generator is far less efficient than using the 240v output and using that to power a multistage battery charger which will not only charge the battery to its full capacity but will also extend its life. Sure you have no conversion losses using 12v but you will get more charge in the battery using a proper charger which equals better efficiency.


    Plus efficiency has a cost. A cheap generator driving a battery charger may cost a bit more in fuel than a properly designed and premium priced system but the saving in purchase price will pay for a lot of extra fuel.